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Week 41: Namibia and the crash

Last weekend we left Windhoek, heading south to Rehoboth before heading south west through the mountains towards the Namib desert and a town called Sesriem. Sesriem is on the edge of a national park in the desert, we arrived there after dark and set up camp. The next morning we got up at 5am to get into the desert for sunrise. We saw some Springbok and Oryx while driving out into the dunes, then we walked around in the desert for a while taking pictures before we set off back to the camp and then drove north back to Swakopmund.

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It was on the way to Swakopmund that I had my accident, most of the roads here in Namibia are not tarmac but gravel, graders drive along the roads helping to keep the gravel to a minimum. The only problem is that it moves the gravel into long strips running the length of the road. I was around 100Km outside of Swakopmund when my bike started slipping in one of these gravel strips, I had slipped before and regained control but this time the bike weaved and wobbled for about 60 meters then fell onto the left side, this is when I hurt my wrist and bashed my ribs, the bike slid down the road a little way, then flipped over onto the right side and landed on my foot. I got up and made sure I could still move all my joints, then picked up the contents of my top box, which were now scattered around on the road. After a few minutes a car arrived and asked if I was ok, the driver helped me pick my bike up, I repacked the top box and continued down the road, meeting up with Charlie after about 40Km. We drove back to Swakopmund and checked into a hotel, I limped into the room, took off my boot and my foot was swollen. We got some ice from the hotel and I took some pain killers, then rested with ice on my foot and wrist.

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Luckily, when I woke up the next day my foot hadn’t turned black and blue as I had expected, everything still hurt but I could walk and ride. I cleaned the bike up and replaced the clutch lever then we spent two days resting in Swakopmund before heading north again. We headed to a seal colony in Cape Cross and were planning to take the main road to Uis, the people who worked in the sanctuary told us about a ‘new road’ which cut through the desert. We decided to take this ‘new road’ which was actually a decent gravel track until we got about half way into the desert, then it became tyre tracks through sand and gravel, which was hellish, my ribs hurt as I tried to keep the bike upright paddling through the sand but hurt even more when I had to pick the bike up again when I failed to keep it upright. It was dark by the time we reached the normal gravel road at the end of the ‘new road’ so we continued to Uis in the dark and found a camping spot.

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The next night we stayed in a camping spot in a town called Warmquelle, it had its own little waterfall and natural swimming pool. After eating we went to the pool to watch the bats flying low over the water catching insects. The next day we went to the most northerly part of Namibia to visit Epupa falls. The north of Namibia actually seems like Africa, whereas the rest of Namibia feels like a German adventure holiday resort. In the north the Himba people still live in tribal villages and wear traditional clothes. We camped on the edge of the waterfalls and the children from the village came to talk to us and swim in the rock pools at the top of the falls. It really was an awesome experience. We are now heading east across the northern border of Namibia towards Botswana and Zambia, my foot doesn’t hurt too much, only when I stand up on the pegs, my wrist is fine unless I move it in certain directions but my ribs hurt most of the time, I’m taking painkillers which help.

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Week 40: Getting the bikes back

On Monday, Charlie arrived at around lunch time and we went for some pizza in ‘The Raft’, a restaurant on the Walvis Bay lagoon, afterwards we walked into town and met four of the other people who shipped their bikes with us. Everyone checked into the hotel where I had been staying so that we could sort out the customs stuff for the bikes.

On Tuesday morning we went to the office to hand over all our documents and were hoping to get the bikes that afternoon, we waited in the hotel all day but nothing actually happened, so we had a BBQ instead. The next day the container was ready to be opened, we all went down and unloaded the bikes. I was the only person who doesn’t have a Carnet de Passage, so I had extra paperwork to do in order to get a temporary import permit. This also included me leaving a 400 Euro deposit, which will be refunded once I leave Namibia with the bike. It was during the unpacking of the container that I realised my digital camera is broken, last weekend when I was on the sand dunes some sand has gotten into the zoom lens and it is now jammed, but we have our bikes back and Charlie is lending me one of his cameras, so overall it was a good day.

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We were hoping to leave Walvis Bay on Thursday, but first I needed to do some work on the bike. The clutch lever had been broken during the journey in the container and I have been having some electrical problems since Greece, plus I wanted to do a service on the bike. It took a lot longer than expected to get hold of some oil, an oil filter, a new horn, a replacement clutch lever and some chain lube, so we got back to the hotel at sunset and I did all the work by torch light. Then on Friday we finally left Walvis bay, firstly driving north a little way to see some nicer beaches, then refuelling before heading east. We planned to travel through some mountain passes to end up in southern Namibia to do some camping, but while we were driving Charlie started to have some problems with his BMW F800. We decided to continue east to Windhoek so that he could get it repaired. We are now in Windhoek staying in a hostel called the cardboard box, hopefully the repairs wont take long and we can head south this weekend.

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Week 39: Windhoek and Walvis Bay

I arrived in Namibia on the 30th of March and stayed in Windhoek for 4 night before I headed out to Walvis Bay. Windhoek itself is not a great place to spend your time, the streets are wide and clean but they are empty, there doesn’t seem to be any people around even though it is the capital city. Luckily I stayed in a nice guest house with some Germans who are here for work or studies. After four nights I headed west to Walvis Bay, just after I arrived I read my Email and realised that four of the people I shipped the bike with were staying in another guest house just a few minutes walk from where I had stayed in Windhoek. I also found that we weren’t going to get the bikes back on Thursday as I had imagined. So I checked into another guest house here in Walvis Bay and settled in, ready for the rest of the guys to arrive.

While I have been staying here, two girls I had met in Windhoek came here for the Easter weekend and by chance, they had booked into the same place I was staying. At the same time, two guys from the UK checked in too. One of the guys now lives and works in Kenya but had taken four months off to travel around southern Africa, it was good to meet him because he had done the journey I am about to do. Walvis Bay is nice but it is very quiet, I haven’t really enjoyed the coast very much because I have spent time in Ghana, where the weather is warm and the beaches are nicer. On Sunday we went out to Dune 7, an outdoor adventure centre in the desert, people do quad rides and dune surfing.

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It seemed expensive to me and the service wasn’t good, we were originally told that we needed to wait an hour, then after that hour they told us to wait 45 minutes. We got our money back and drove north to do some dune boarding for free with a board we had borrowed from our guest house. On Monday morning the English guys and the girls I’d met in Windhoek left Walvis Bay, later that day Charlie arrived. We went for a walk through town and met the rest of the guys by chance at the side of the road. We all headed back to Loubser guest house and spent the afternoon drinking beer and catching up. We should get the bikes back today or maybe tomorrow and then we can explore more of Namibia, I can’t wait.

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Weeks 37 & 38: Ghana to Namibia

Week 37 started with Charlie leaving to fly to the UK while we are waiting for the bikes to be shipped to Namibia. I decided that I would go back to the Green Turtle Lodge in the West of Ghana, but when I arrived I met Bahar and a couple of English guys, they were planning to leave the Green Turtle the next day. I was planning to fly to Namibia on the Friday and so were they, so I decided to tag along, we headed to Cape coast for a few days. This is when I found out that the container ship had left without our container, so our bikes would be delayed by an extra week. This is when I decided not to fly that week, but to stay in Ghana another week, Bahar and the English guys left on Friday and this is when I met a group of Germans who were headed to Kakum National Park. The next day we headed north to Kakum and went on the canopy walk through the forest.

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From Kakum we headed to a place in Ghana I had never been before (even though I had travelled the coast around four times), the village was called Brenu, we stayed there a few days before heading back to the Green Turtle for a few more days. Then headed to another place which was new to me, Busua. We managed to stay in a hotel which was being renovated, so we stayed there for free with the Rastas who owned the place. After spending a night there I decided to head to Takoradi to book my flight to Namibia, since then everything has seemed to move very quickly, I managed to find book a flight for the next day. I spent that night in Cape Coast, then headed to Accra the next day. My flight went through Friday night so I arrived in Windhoek, Namibia at 6am on Saturday morning. Namibia is colder than I expected, but only at night. The main shock is that Windhoek doesn’t feel like Africa, everything is very European, or to be more specific, German. I should be able to collect my bike on Thursday, so I will stay here for a few days before heading to Walvis Bay.